Omani Traditional Dress on the Runway

Oman has managed to preserve much of its original culture, including the differing and colourful varaiations of regional dresses for women. Now more or less reserved for special occasions or hidden under black abayas, the traditional dress is being reinvented and influenced by the different regions brought together in workplaces and schools. The kind of jewelry once worn by women in Dhofar is now worn by women in Buraimi, ect. Designers of the "new " traditional dress are influenced by the other regions or other media, and this has always been the case in Oman, due to the import of Indian craftsmen and trade in Zanzibar, and a policy of welcoming foriegners as valued guests.
Traditional Muscat/a form of Al Batinah regional dress is constantly adapting, but has strongly influenced the perceived form of the 'national dress' along with the interior Ad Dakliyah region. Often worn for state occasion and by school children for His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said, the Al Batinah and Ad Dakliyah dresses could most commonly be considered the majority Omani dress.

Mistakenly referred to by expats and non-Omanis as "Hindu" or "Pakistani" influenced dresses, due to the predominance of the tunic top and sirwal, Omani pants, being tighter at the ankle, are in no way similar in cut to the churider pants of India, nor is the cut of the Omani tunic, though the embroideries of these dresses today, are predominately Pakistani and Indian due to the tailors originating from those countries in Muscat.

*In the 1900s it was quite common for the women of Muscat to wear the birqa face covering now more closely associated to Beduoin culture in other regions.*

Traditional Muscati dress consists of a knee length tunic dress and worn over sarwal /pants, a headscarf often fringed called waqayah or lihaf, worn under another longer rectangular scarf without fringe called the leso or a kanga by the Zanzibari/East African Omani population dependent on the textile used. Al Batinah and Ad Dakliyah Regional Dresses

Dresses of the Muscat and Al Batinah region also typically feature what are called zarrie laces running from the shoulder to the hem as a means of decoration, on the sirwal, and at the neck fastening of the tunic. This is also consistant from Muscat, Al Batinah, and Ad Daklihaya region/governates, only difference being Al Batinah and Ad Dakiliyah typically have a textile trimming the bottom of the tunic additionally called, I believe, the sinjaf??? Al Batinah usually use purple fabric to form the sinjaf traditionally, while Ad Dakliyah tunic styles are hemmed on the longer side, mid calf rather than knee length. Ad Dakliyah dresses ALWAYS include the leso and the yarn fringed warqiyah/lihaf, and this is the Omani style you will most often spot OPNO sporting.uscat style, are also, now being influenced by Western and Indian culture, as these artistic expressions below bear testment to:

Dhofari dress: The outfit worn by Dhofari women is made up of three parts: the sarwal (the trousers), the loose dress which is shorter in the front and longer in the back called abuthail "father of the tail", the shayla/headcovering. It differs from the regional dress of other parts of Oman, mainly because of the area's classical relation to the Hadramout Kingdom.
Traditionally, the sarwal were not worn in areas of Dhofar further away from Yemen, although they always WERE worn in Yemen. Today, however, women in Dhofar wear the sarwal when leaving the house. For more casual occasions they are made of cotton and for special occasions velvet, silk or another more valued textile, and often decorated at the ankle hem.
Daily worn, the abuthail dresses are made of cotton with no embellishment and with a shorter tail hemline as exampled in the below, albeit, the below being a highly embellished example of the shorter, more practical day-wear hemlines.For special occasions they are made of velvet and silk chiffons, and highly embellished with crystals or embroideries. Traditionally, black velvet was worn for the abuthail with edging embroidered with bright alternating coloured threads in pointed and straight lines. Though new styles have evolved, originally the dress had a square neckline with no sleeves, only openings in the side seams. With the back trailing behind and the front hemmed above the ankles, legend in Salalah says the dress evolved this way to erase a woman's footsteps. Of course, it wouldn't have been made of silk in the past, if the legend holds true;)
The headcovering in Salalah is traditional worn loose but is now securely wrapped, this having evolved from more Northern Omani styles.
Having just covered one of the most often produced traditional dresses reinvented by designers on the runways, after the Dhofari dress, the other dress most worn by my Omani friends who aren't ACTUALLY from Dhofar or Sur in Ash Sharqiyah region, is the traditional dress of Sur, the suri.

Ashsharqiyah Dress from Sur is traditionally of the same function as Northern Omani dress, consisting of a tunic dress and sarwal pants, but the way that these items are embellished is distinct to the region. While other Omani regions typically embellish the bottom of the tunic and its chest, this region only embelished the garment on the wrists and on the bottom hem of the Sirwal. Additional embroidery for the chest panel was left for the suri.
The suri, better described pictorially in its traditional form in this post http://howtolivelikeanomaniprincess.blogspot.com/2010/12/suris-traditional-sharqiyah-dress.html is a loosely woven (traditionally black) wide sleeved overgarment, usually extensively embroidered along the chest, and often minutely on the sleeve hems. It is worn over the embroidered traditional tunic and pants by pulling the sleeve edges up and over on the head so that they criss-cross eachother. This can leave the arms either covered to the elbow, or to the wrist, depending on how far back on the head the garment it tied/pinned. It may also be used to fully envelop the face. It is very breathable, and easy to move in and usually covers to the feet or ankles, unlike the shorter tunic worn beneath.

Barka Al Jig Baluchi dress- There are no concrete facts as to the origin of this design but popular opinion is that it originated in the city of Barka in the Al Batinah region. However, there are numerous other cities where the Baluchi women also wear this style.

Unlike traditional Baluchi dress with ruched siding seams at the waist, this dress is not worn beyond Omani borders, and the embellishments on the chest, wrists, and hem all demonstrate an Omani influence, including the two vertical lines that run from each shoulder to the hem.

This style dress usually includes a lihaf (headcovering), tighter sirawal than traditional Baluchi pants embroidered Omani style with laces and zarrie, and a mid-calf dress without set-in sleeves called a Juma. Similar to the Dhofari abuthail, it has side seam openings instead.

Although I could not find any pics of traditional Baluchi dress at this fashion show, I posted about it here:
http://howtolivelikeanomaniprincess.blogspot.com/2010/10/not-traditional-omani-dress-but-close.html

and this Muslim woman whose blog I enjoy also did: http://muhajabat.wordpress.com/2010/10/07/dress-of-the-balooch-women/

Beduoin Al Wusta Dress traditionally consisted of a long dress mainly embroidered at the wrists called a jalabiyia, with sirwal that could hardly be seen that were rarely embellsihed, and shayla/headscovering made from sheer black cotton mesh.

The burqa/facial mask is always worn by married women in Al Wusta region, and traditionally dark colours like indigo and black are preferred for the burqa.

Overtop of the jalabiyia a ghabaah is worn. A ghabaah is a fine black mesh covering worn over the full-length of the jalabiyia and unlike the Suri version, is not used to cover the hair and so, is much narrower in cut and unembellished traditionally. This covering is completely sheer but tends to protect the clothing underneath from being scratched by sand and dust.

*These are the runway fashion pics I could find thus far depicting regional dressing, though I will still endeavor to include regions thus far neglected.*

OPNO's Likes....: Souqs (top 5 picks)

In "OPNO likes" we are going to give you our top five picks with runner-ups for things we like to see or do (or eat) in Oman, inshaAllah.

TOP FIVE SOUQS in Oman

1.) Mutrah Souq, Muscat: as it contains spices, insence, perfumes, tourist souvenirs, cheap clothes and accessories persons--house&home--and more from India and China, a gold souq, a fish souq, fabric stores, tailoring bits&bobs plus tailoring services, Omani traditional things, furniture (not very much but...), and a lovely location along the Corniche. You feel like you are in Ali Baba's cave or in the Disney Aladdin movie at times.

The reason this souq is number one for Oman to me is a. it's location in Muscat and touristy traditional things, easily accessible by tourists but still frequented by real live Omanis going about their shopping, and near-ness to a lovely stroll down the corniche , or trips to Museums [Bait Al Baranda] and a decent cafe or 2. I also love the tailors since I am a fan of Omani traditional dresses.

Located in the Al Batinah region, just a short drive away from Muscat. Open Weekly from: 8-9 am, and 4-10:30 pm. Fridays: 4:00-11:00 pm is best.

2.) Sinaw Souq, As Sharqiyah: for it being the oldest preserved souq in Oman and for it being the best place to buy genuine antique beduoin jewelry and rifles, as well as camels.

I chose it because I love Beduoin life, and short of journeying into the wahiba or spending more time in the region, this is a place Beudoin families come for socialising. And anyone who knows me in IRL, knows I am a Beduoin if they ever was one.


Located in Al Sharqiyah Region, the quickest way to get here from Muscat is to drive up the Nizwa road, and turn towards Adam. From Adam it takes roughly 40 minutes.
Open from 7 a.m- 11:oo a.m. Best day is Thursday.


3.) Al Hafah Souq, Dhofar: Nestled in the coconut groves on Salalah's south side it is a cozy souq in the Al Hafah section of town. Here are textile shops, gold and silver souqs and probably best of all, perfumeries where you can find the best frankincense in Oman, and bukhoor that will send your olfactory senses sailing.

Additionally, there are several local cafe's serving up the best in local snacks and tidbits-mishkak, hummus, etc, and if you are a fan of khaleeji abayas, Salalah's tailors make the nicest at the lowest prices.

Located is Al Hafah, Salalah, open from, honestly, I don't know, please, a Dhofari reader let me know, but usually from 8 am-1 pm, and 4-10 pm I'm guessing.

4.) Nizwa Souq, Ad Dhakliyah: I kind of had to choose Nizwa souq even though I don't frequent it personally, very often, because a. it is only a 2 hour drive from Muscat, b. for Omanis it has the best traditional livestock souq [goats, cows, chickens] on friday mornings and the best silversmiths in the country [I always buy a new ring or bracelet when I come here, maybe a get some work done a khanjar for my son], b. it is located adjacent Nizwa fort, a popular tourist destination in itself, and finally, c. there's always the touristy stuff, and on any day of the week you can experience the usual hustle-bustle of the traditional markets selling fruits and vegetables, spices, meat and fish.

Open from 7:30 am-1:00 pm, and 4:00-9:30 pm. Best day, early friday morning.

5.) Ibra's Wednesday Women-Only Souq, As-Sharqiyah: Ladies, here is your chance to prove your shopping mettle at the Wednesday Souq in Ibra. Why? Because it's an all-women affair. No men allowed. So ditch your significant other and come to Ibra. Handicrafts, utensils and textiles are the main features here.

If you like traditional dress as much as OPNO does, this souq is for you. Wednesday morning 7:30-11:30 pm is the best time.

Weekend Recap: We're Going to Sinaw, We're going to Sinaw

On the weekend, OPNO and friends drove to Sinaw from the road in Bid Bid. And we only took one wrong turn, which was the fault of some old Omani dude in a petrol station we asked directions from. He said to turn at the next petrol station. He meaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaant, the next petrol station AFTER the next petrol station.

Thank you nice Sharqiyah family who drove as all the way to the real road!

All the way there, Princess and OPNO were chanting, "We're going to Sinaw, we're going to sinaw" and MOP was singing Dhofari traditional songs, about pearls, "Da da dana" or something, and not-so-traditional songs from Salalah, about a young Dhofari lad at the Univeristy begging the security guard to let him in to see a girl, because he was a changed man, although not related to the girl.

Radio does not work once you hit the mountains.

Well, it was a nice trip, lots of driving. We left late though, so really, it is better to leave at 6 or 7 am from Muscat on the Nizwa road to get to the traditional souq in Sinaw if you want to see it for what it is. 9 am until 11 am is the best time to see Souq Sinaw.

Thankfully, we still checked out the going price on camels for meat and for riding. (We are poor folks, and racing camels, we do not need).

Though MOP told us a funny story about "racing camels" from back in the days when he worked with the Beduoin.

We mainly went to check out the Beduoin culture, and to see some real knives and khanjars. We also checked the prices on some antique rifles, cuz MOP wants one. OPNO REEEEAAALLLY wanted to buy some Sharqiyah traditional dresses but we came to late for that.

We did buy a decent box of tomatoes though, for only 1 rial, lol, and checked out a Mandoos tv cabinet which was totally cool for one of the rooms in one the OPNO girl's places.

After the Souq sinaw closed, and the most sensitive OPNO had petted her fair share of camels and goats, getting excited everytime she saw a Toyato pick up with two camels haunched in the back yelling at them "Hi sweeties!!!!!!" to the chagrin of MOP, the group headed to Nizwa by way of Adam, haunted by sign advertised Adam's horse racetrack, where they explored the Niwa souq there and had lunch in a grand coffee shop. (The red one) acroos from the mountain that kind of looks like a dragon sleeping or a stegasaurus (sorry, my directions SUCK without pictures). Perfect meal, for only three rials et al. Yummy.

For all ya'll who have never seen the most famous fort (I don't know why, I don't love it all that much though it has some great cannons) (maybe cuz there are ALWAYS busloads of tourists here so shopping for a decent price is hard): Nizwa fort, open Saturday to Thursday, from 9 am until 4pm, and Fridays, 8:00 am until 11:00 am.

They also explored an Islamic book shop, looking for a book explaining Ibadhi fiqh, and bought some Salat lecture cassette tapes in the Ibadhi madhab. This is a religious thing. If you're not Islamically inclined, ignore.

After that, they THOUGHT of driving through Izki, but decided to save that for another day, and headed back to Muscat on the Nizwa road way.

OPNOs practiced their reading of Arabic under the tutelage of MOP who was aghast that the girls could not read "Fanja" since they knew all the letters, and at home they watched four movies, two of which were terrible, picked by MOP, and one that was okay, picked by Princess, and one that was excellent, of course, picked by OPNO. ;p take THAT MOP.

Suris---traditional Sharqiyah dress

A Suri is a loosely woven (traditionally black) wide sleeved overgarment, usually extensively embroidered along the chest, and often minutely on the sleeve hems. It is worn over the embroidered traditional tunic and pants pictured below, by pulling the sleeve edges up and over on the head so that they criss-cross eachother. This can leave the arms either covered to the elbow, or to the wrist, depending on how far back on the head the garment it tied/pinned. It is very breathable, and easy to move in and usually covers to the feet or ankles, unlike the shorter tunic worn beneath.

To see more of the traditional embroidery work on Sharqiyah regional dress, this post has a few more examples:

http://howtolivelikeanomaniprincess.blogspot.com/2010/09/omani-traditional-dress-al-sharqiyah.html

I miss when the beduoin of Oman had tents... really I do

"If there wasn't enough water for everyone, we'd pour the water that we had into the sand"

I miss the days when Beduoin in Oman still had tents. Really I do. And I know that is selfish. You ask the men at the edge of Rub Al Khali (Empty Quarter) about the old days before government housing and they'll tell you when they had to drink camel throw-up because there wasn't enough water and the like, and your Orientalist longing for old black goathair tents will subside if you have an ounce of humanity and intelligence in you.

I guess I don't.

My sis and me went to Beduoin weddings as kids. We learned traditional dances and got gifts from the bride and the men fired off their rifles, and I got accustomed to goat's milk and meat and weaving mats and baskets and am rather good with camels. Which makes Omanis in Muscat laugh alot, and tease me.

I kind of fit in, in Sharqiyah, in a way I never have anywhere else, which is funny but, really I feel that.

Anyways, should you encounter a Beduoin tent these days (rather unlikely though an old work aquaintance G is a Beduoin and grew up without ACs) here is a fun article for you to read:

These black tents that seem so romantic on the landscape are called in Arabic "beit sha'ar" or "house of hair". They are familiarly referred to as a "beit" or "house" (the same word of course as a house in a village).

They are woven by the Bedouin women out of goats' hair, in separate sections; a woman will normally weave the sections for her own "house", and also prepare the fabric strips in advance in anticipation of future need by her family or perhaps her children later. Goats' hair shrinks when it is wet, so in winter the tent is protected by the closely woven fabric. When it is dry, this fabric often sags, seeming to have holes everywhere, and allowing a breeze to enter.
You might like to look at the page concerning Bedouin weaving for more details on the looms and techniques used. There are also some photos in the Photo Galley page on Bedouin.

In summer, you may notice that many tents are in poor condition and even eked out by cardboard boxes, bits of sacking or sheets of wood or metal. In fact, when it is warm, all that is required is shade from the sun, shelter from any wind and privacy from passers by. Hence the old tents are usually used in summer, and the "good" tents reserved for winter. One is tempted to think that the poor tents are a sign of poverty: absolutely not necessarily, just prudent management!

A normal tent is apt to be large: often 30 or 40 meters long. It is divided into 2 sections : the public area, usually left open to the world during the day, and the women's area on the right hand side (when you face the tent), which is usually kept closed when any strangers are likely to be around. Nobody from outside the family would ever venture to intrude upon the women, even other women do so upon invitation. The public area is normally arranged to receive guests, who sit, lounge or lie upon mattresses arranged around a small fire. The women are free to join in any talk, and usually do so. When it is cold, this area is closed at night by dropping the sections of cloth which are rolled up during the day.

No discussion of money or business, no bargaining will ever take place inside the tent which is "to be kept inviolate" from outside matters. A guest will be received inside, will sit and drink tea or coffee, but if he has come to discuss business, eventually, when the talk becomes serious, the whole party will move outside, taking mattresses and tea etc. with them. If the affair interests them, the women will often join the men here as well.

Coffee is prepared in advance, the beans are roasted at the end of a long shovel before being crushed in a mortar and the grounds solemnly dropped into hot water. Just enough cardamon is added, and the infusion is left to stand for several hours. When a visitor arrives, the coffee is boiled on the long spouted coffee pot and the coffee poured ceremoniously into small cups. The visitor drinks off the hot light coloured liquid in one gulp and will usually be offered a second.

Accepting a third cup of coffee means that you consider yourself one of the family and that you are ready to fight for it if necessary. Deliberately to refuse an offered third cup is a very serious thing to do.

Good manners are very important to the Bedouin. The worst sin is to cause a quarrel in somebody else's tent (or wherever could be considered somebody's home), and invariably people will go to great lengths to avoid this. A polite man will try to avoid visiting anywhere near to a meal time - there is no way his host cannot invite him to stay, however scarce the food supply.

The polite man will also arrive protesting he is in a great hurry and must leave as soon as possible, thus cutting off his host's offer to "kill a goat" in honour of the visit. Several minutes are always spent in enquiring after each other's health and family, before any mention is made of business.

Obviously non-Arabs are not expected to know the nuances of "Bedouin behaviour", all allowances are made for them - even for those who sit with their bare feet pointing directly at the host.

http://www.jordanjubilee.com/meetfolk/bedouin.htm (He also has a page on Beduoin customs and really, an informative page on basic Beduoin life). Though alot of this is fading out.

Driving in Oman: BAD OPNO, doing it without a lisence AGAIN

On our Sharqiyah excursion, I drove. Now I know, yes, the law is, until you HAVE your full lisence, you have to drive in one of those white cars with red strips, but the car was sans insurance anyway. No I do not have an Omani lisence. But I did officially get the green little cover in Seeb near the airport that says I can LEARN from the ROP OFFICIALLY!!!!! Alhamdulilah, I am going to be FREE!!!! I had a great time driving all the way from Sur to Al Amerat, and no accidents or troubles, though I had never done a roundabout before Sur. But one thing I did notice is I had my foot on the gas to pass this horrible weighted down truck through the mountains, and the RPM was up and it was just making alot of noise. NO, Z, your little Kia does not have the speed that I am used to!:[Above is highschool OPNO, and no, that is no longer her lisence plate so my identity cannot be learned from that lol]. I asked Z about what would happen if I drove around muscat in a souped up pink mustang or Jeep. I mean, would it be okay or would the attention from the boys noticing it was a girl's car drive me to drive myself into a barrier or baisa bus. Z said it would be fine (and this is the chick that makes me sit facing a certain direction in restaurants, so I guess all is good). (I love Mustangs and Jeeps though I know neither are super good quality, forgive me, I am a girl). Unlike our Muscat shebab, I don't appaud car scenes in movies, or give a moment of silence out of respect when a nice Mercedes or Jag. drives by. The Shanfari building does not stop my heart. I have to be driving a Ferrari on the track to appreciate it. And I have only ever driven a Lambourghini, which honestly I like more than Ferrari, personally. Frankly, to drive it around Muscat seems a bit silly to me. You'd be like that fat Qatari dude in a youtube vid I am too lazy to search for who doens't know how to drive it. I'd rather have a decent Range rover, and jeep. I am good at driving Jeeps, manual/standard even. Their klutch system makes sense to me. Or a good old Toyota truck, lol.Anyways, driving from Al Amerat to Qurayat on the way to Sur reminds me to driving to the Big Sur on the California coast highway back in North America. Even some of the geography is the same, only in Oman, you don't spot alot of cattle on the way to Sur. And I have great hopes for passing my driving test here in Oman. Because if these folks passed:Then there is REALLY no reason that I wouldn't.